Guidelines for Bolting at Point Perpendicular
The following guidelines have been written in response to recent bolting activities at Point Perp that have resulted in bolts being chopped. I probably should have covered this topic in the guidebook but I left it out because I figured it was common sense. None of these guidelines are new and are largely a reprint of the ‘ethics’ section from Bob McMillan’s guide book.
New routes should not significantly affect existing routes
If you are installing bolts make sure they aren’t on or near an existing route. Many of the routes at Point Perp weave all over the place following gear placements. The topo line in the guide book can’t show the ‘width’ of a route. The only reliable way to know where the existing routes go is to lead them. Also bear in mind that some routes can be done by different paths. If you are not sure where the existing routes go, don’t drill.
Bolts should only be placed where good natural placements are not available.
Point Perp is NOT a sport crag. It’s NOT acceptable to bolt over natural placements. The Nowra ethic of bolting over everything does not apply. Climbers are expected to be competent in using natural (trad) gear. If you are not competent in placing trad gear you should not be putting up new routes at Point Perpendicular.
Don’t put ring bolts on the cliff top
They're big, ugly and a trip hazard. Use carrots instead.
Why should you follow these guidelines?
It boils down to two things, tradition and respect.
There has been much discussion regarding the issue of bolting at Point Perp. I respectfully request that everyone consider the following.
Climbers have always (in the past) respected the different styles of climbing. Hand in hand with that respect was the fact that different crags were set aside for different styles of climbing.
Point Perp has traditionally been an area where bolts are used in conjunction with trad gear. Crags with this bolt + trad ethic are becoming increasingly rare and I think that the conversion of Point Perp to a sport crag would be a great loss to the climbing community as a whole. I ask that climbers respect the rights of climbers who climb in different styles and leave Point Perp as a trad crag.
Please respect the ethics of the crag, please respect the routes of the climbers who have gone before and please respect the other climbers who climb there.
There have been a number of new routes since the release of the guide book. Information on these routes is available at http://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/point-perpendicular
The Lighthouse gets a makeover
Defence have completed the restoration work on the lighthouse. As part of this work the fence within the lighthouse enclosure has been moved back from the cliff edge.
Climbing access to the cliff edge within the lighthouse enclosure remains unchanged.
Check out the review by Rock Magazine
Review in Rock Magazine (No89 Summer 2011-2012)
Robert Dun has ruined climbing at Point Perp. In the good old days you could grab your guide and head out safe in the knowledge that your chances of finding a climb were pretty minimal. This would lead to a great afternoon in the pub, not too much wear on your gear and you'd be fresh for tomorrow. This guide will ruin all that. You are sure to find your climb, get pumped, get scared, have fun, and you mightn't even get to the pub before dark.
This guide is a real labour of love; it's almost apologetic about routes the author hasn't personally done. There are a few new useful features. If a route has stars, the reason why it gets them is discussed. Any cautions are also similarly discussed. There is a cobweb symbol for rarely climbed
routes (or it could mean "Warning, old climbers may lurk here").
The Tempest 17 20m.
** Excellent climbing with good protection and outrageously steep for the grade.
! There is a loose looking flake thing at half height. It is possible to climb around it if you want to avoid it.
Amazingly clear photo-topos (mostly taken from low-flying planes) and route descriptions make using the guide a breeze. Even the location of the super discreet carrot anchors are laid out in the topos (they are pretty invisible, sometimes you 'd give up and belay on bushes then notice you were sitting on the carrot belay). The are about 470 routes all up. It's available from all good bookshops, outdoor stores, or from www.pointperp.com for $39.95. It has 144 pages, and at least one good photo and heart attack per page.
The following quotes are from the Chockstone climbing forum. To read all the posts click here and here.
‘Awesome guide.....this guide is clear and simple to use. It has amazing aerial photos of all the cliffs, good access notes, and even the elusive clifftop belay carrots are pin-pointed. There are some mouth-watering photos too.’ – mikllaw
‘I have to say it is one of the best guides in Australia.’ – simey
‘I can certainly say it’s a vast improvement over the previous one. The authors have really put a lot of attention to detail into the guide in every way.’ The aerial topos are a huge bonus. There is also quite a few new routes at major areas that are included. Worth every $. – nmonteith
‘Received my copy last night after ordering the day before. Great service and a fantastic guidebook as well!’ – Climbau
IN STORES NOW!
Climb Point Perp is available from the following stores. Look for the poster in the window.
NEW SOUTH WALES
Mountain Equipment (Sydney)
Mountain Designs (Sydney)
Mountain Equipment (Chatswood)
Climbfit Indoor Climbing Gym (St Leonards)
Sydney Indoor Climbing Gym (St Peters)
Sydney Indoor Climbing Gym (Villawood)
The Climbing Centre (Penrith)
Hangdog Climbing Gym (Wollongong)
Bushcraft Equipment (Wollongong)
Shoalhaven Visitors Centre
Outdoors and Beyond
Adventure 195 (Newcastle)
Pulse Climbing (Adamstown)
Mountain Designs (Braddon)
Mont Adventure Shop (Fyshwick)
Paddy Pallin (Katoomba)
BJR Climbing Equipment (Blackheath)
Adventure Gear (Albury)
Bogong Equipment (Melborne)
Arapiles Mountain Shop (Natimuk)
K2 Base Camp (Fortitude Valley)